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It’s an odd phenomenon: Multi-pitch leaders build a 2-4 piece anchor, then belay up the follower on the central point. If the follower falls, the largest load would be 1:1, so basically the weight of the climber. But then… Quite often the next leader then leads off by clipping the highest piece of the anchor. Where’s the logic?! The highest load this anchor could receive occurs precisely when the leader launches off—not when the belayer hangs off it while belaying up the second or while the seco
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It’s an odd phenomenon: Multi-pitch leaders build a 2-4 piece anchor, t…
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